The Environmental Cost of Fashion

If you haven’t heard the alarming fact before, here it is: the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry second only to oil. With tangled processes from harvesting cotton for basic tees or mixing coal, petroleum, air and water for polyester, the production of our clothes sources, consumes and impacts greatly (Common Objective).

Agriculture

In the agricultural aspect alone, the residual effects from pesticide and insecticide use have detrimental impact on soil, waterways, airways and the overall health of the people around. In Lubbock, Texas, part of the largest continuous cotton-growing region of the world (the South Plains), The True Cost meet cotton farmer, LaRhea Pepper, to hear her testimony on why she made the switch to organic cotton farming.

Raised on a cotton farm, from a lineage of cotton farmer’s LaRhea was destined to supply cotton demand. Marrying a fellow farmer, Terry and LaRhea continued the cotton legacy. With little awareness of the residual effects of pesticide and insecticide use, their lives were interrupted in 2005, shifting LaRhea’s perspective on traditional farming methods. Having started to lose fine motor skills, Terry was diagnosed with Glioblastoma Multiform—stage 4 brain tumor. Given 6 months to live, but fought on for two more, Terry passed away at the age of 50, imprinting a mark on LaRhea, questioning the well-being of her greater community.

“These types of tumors are found in men aged 45 to 65 that work in the agricultural industry or the oil field”, reflects LaRhea before divulging her experience (The True Cost). Without direct evidence of chemical use causing the death of her husband, she sought out to recognize the risk she and her community faced being situated in the chemically concentrated Lubbock. Living around 3.6 million acres of cotton, LaRhea switched her conventional, intensive farming technique to organic reducing the use of irrigation and elimination of toxic pesticides in soil, air and waterways. Promoting organic farming as a way to sustain life for families and the environment, her husband’s fatal moment with agricultural pollution aids a transformative future for the next generation.

“It’s imperative that we change agriculture…if we are talking about the long-term sustainability and well-being of our lives on this planet and our children’s lives on the planet, that we have to change.” - LeRhea Pepper

Plastic pollution has been a problem for decades. But new research shines the spotlight on a new plastic pollution menace -- microfibers.

Polyester

Though not all textiles come from nature and making up for more than 65% of the fibers used in the textile and apparel industry, polyester derives from a high-impact process, leaving a long-lasting mess. The oil-based plastic fiber is non-biodegradable resting for several decades to potentially hundreds of years in landfills. To produce the synthetic fiber, greenhouse gas emissions release 14.2 kg of CO 2 per kilogram produced. In 2015, that was 282 billion kg of CO 2, equivalent to nearly 3 times more than cotton farming emissions. From air to ocean, polyester factories without proper wastewater treatment systems threat waterways as they can release potentially dangerous substances (cobalt, titanium dioxide, antimony, sodium bromide) into the environment (Common Objective).

Though the impact doesn’t stop before reaching the point-of-sale. We as consumer’s pose an imminent threat to marine ecosystems as microplastic fibers are released daily from washing machines. For perspective, a single garment can produce more than 1,900 plastic containing fibers per wash (depending on the fabric blend). These toxins build up in oceans contaminating marine life, the food chain and ultimately the food we eat. Sustainable outdoor apparel brand, Patagonia, conducted a study estimating that for every 100,00 people, up to 110 kg of microfibers would be released into local water ways daily. Equivalent to the pollution caused by approximately 15,000 plastic bags (Common Objective). Overall, the volume of pollution into sewage, then into land-based ecosystems is equal to around 4 million 7 million plastic bags per day (Common Objective). In committing to keep our environments, ecosystems and bodies clean, consumers and brands need to redirect the value we put on oil-based synthetic fibers and start using and sourcing better quality materials that are restorative for the environment.

Leather Tanning

Tanneries, like this one in Kanpur, are a vital part of India's leather textiles industry. In 2009, India produced 8 percent of the world's leather.

Today, the industry is set to double the use of plastic fibers by 2030, with little implementation of technological solutions for recycling or tackling the microplastic pollution. The impact of this reality is unfortunately not solely to blame on polyester. Textile coloring and treatment processes account for 20% of water pollution, releasing toxic chemicals into water supplies, some of which remain permanently (Common Objective). Though unlike LeRhea’s story, the communities that are most affected are those in the developing countries where cheap textile production is targeted.

China, India, an Indonesia collectively housed 10 factories shown to be producing viscose (a semi-synthetic fiber) and were guilty of dumping untreated waste water polluting local rivers, lakes, killing fish, shrimp and stunting crop growth in 2017 (Changing Markets Foundation). The impact of these practices have long-term implications which can impair communities for generations beyond as fresh water sources, soil, and food sources are contaminated.

In Kanpur, India, home of the holiest river for 800 million Hindus, the leather tanning industry has exposed the community to more than 50 million liters of toxic waste water pouring into local farming and water. Kanpur, the leather export of India, is a source for cheap materials disregarding the costs of the planet and human life. The local environment of Kanpur is directly impacted by the heavy chemicals used to treat leather like Chromium-6, contaminating the soil, drinking water, and ground water. The area’s exposure to Chromium-6 has caused dermal problems such as skin rashes, boils, pustules and numbness in the limbs, and stomach ailments and cancers (The True Cost). In rural parts of the world with little access to jobs that ensure labor rights, education and healthcare, these ailments can pressure families to stretch their means in hopes of curing or stabilizing these illnesses. With growing public awareness to the people and resources behind these methods, there are organizations committed to honoring the all stages of the supply chain to support the less heard.

The Higg Facility Environmental Module

The Higg Facility Environmental Module (Higg FEM) is an innovative tool which measures the impact of individual factories—not just the parent company—so brands know exactly how and where their textiles come from. In tracing brand supply chains, it is important for companies to know who is producing their clothes, where, and what impact they have on the social and environmental justice of the workers and communities at large. The Higg FEM “informs brands, retailers, and manufacturers about the environmental performance of their individual facilities, so they can make improvements that reduce negative impacts such as these” (SAC). Inviting brands to work with their suppliers, new standards are set within the apparel and fashion industry to clean up production measures and reconnect the people and planet.

Facility tools like these are part of the greater solution towards reducing air and water pollution. Brands must deeply consider their impact at the design stage of production, evaluating the textiles used and implementing systems to restore material durability. Choosing between synthetic, conventional, and organic fibers are simple decisions that can greatly improve the health of future generations. There are alternatives to treatment, dying and finishing methods available to all members within the industry that need to become adopted as a norm. When the brand is committed to creating and offering a more sustainable product the suppliers and consumers both benefits.

Radically Designed and Consumed Circular Fashion

Of the 53 million tons of clothes produced globally each year, some 87% are incinerated or dumped into landfills according to a 2017 study by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. In surfacing this alarming statistic, the Foundation has invested in encouraging a regenerative system for industrial implementation, commonly known as circular fashion. A model creating products and materials that are recovered, regenerated, reused, and resold. In alliance with Global Fashion Agenda, I:CO, and other industry players, the 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment was released. 94 companies, making up 12.5% of the global fashion market, have pledged to the commitment. With options to create recycled post-consumer textiles, facilitate the collective of used garments, increase volume of used garments sold and innovate circularity within the design state, these companies are disrupting the linear model—take, make, dispose. It’s estimated the industry can cut emissions by 3 to 6% if the goal of recycling 40% of fibers by 2030 is attained. Fashion’s current carbon footprint is equivalent to the climate impact of the entire European Union, 8.1%. Linking business operations with sustainability goals, these brands are implementing awareness of pollution, resource consumption, processing and disposal methods for the industry and consumers to participate (Business of Fashion).

Purchasing products based on awareness of textile pollution and processing is an action in favor of a cleaner industry for tomorrow

Part of brands responsibility is to empower consumers to purchase quality products applying our values when we shop. They must work within the company and supply chains to improve water and energy use, source sustainably, and give attention to their treatments processes within facilities. Minor decisions like selling used garments, reusing old garments and encouraging consumers to care for our clothes to increase their lifecycle connect the brand, customer and planet. Hand washing our garments causes less damage, uses less water, and relieves the volume of micro-plastic pollution. Collectively, we must think deeper about where our clothes come from and where they go once no longer of value. Purchasing products based on awareness of textile pollution and processing is an action in favor of a cleaner industry for tomorrow. If we can change the trajectory of climate change with our purchasing power and freedom as a business, why wouldn’t we?

Brought to you by Dhana Inc.

Dhana TribeNovember 9, 2018